Exfoliators

Methods of Exfoliation

Exfoliation is essential to the health and youthful appearance of our skin. Everyday we shed millions of skin cells and they tend to build up on the surface of our skin. How do we remove these layers of dead skin? We exfoliate. Exfoliation is important because it aids in the effectiveness of the other products we use on our skin. How can our moisturizer work properly if it cannot penetrate through the dead skin? That's why we need to get rid of that layer. There are different methods of exfoliation; chemical and manual. Both are great ways to buff away the dull, dead skin and leave our skin glowing! 

Chemical Exfoliation 

Chemical exfoliants work by loosening up the dead skin to be easily removed. The two types of chemical exfoliants that I will be discussing are both acids; Salicylic Acid and Alpha Hydroxy Acids. 

Salicylic acid is derived from willow bark, sweet birch, and wintergreen. This is a great option for acne-prone and oily skin types. It is oil-soluble so it can break down and penetrate sebum, it could also be called an "oil fighting" acid. Salicylic also has anti-inflammatory properties which is another reason I would recommend it to someone with inflamed skin. However, salicylic can be extremely drying if it is overused, causing flakiness and dry patches. This acid always needs to be paired with a great moisturizer and sunscreen. Sunscreen is essential when chemically exfoliating your skin. The skin becomes sensitized and more likely to burn in the sun. 

Alpha hydroxy acid can be used on almost all skin types. These three types of aha's are most common and most available to purchase over-the-counter. Alpha hydroxy acids effectively remove hyperkeratosis (extreme build up of dead skin) and flaky skin. They need to have a lower pH than the skin to be effective, usually a 4.0 or 4.5 on the pH scale. 

Glycolic acid is derived from the sugar cane. It works to smooth and improve the skins texture. It can also even out the skin tone. This acid is an extreme photo-sensitizer and definitely needs to be paired with a sunscreen at least SPF 30. 

Lactic acid comes from sour milk. Its larger molecular size doesn't allow it to penetrate as deep as glycolic which makes it a better choice for sensitive skin types. Lactic acid is most commonly know for its great anti-aging benefits. It's also a humectant which aids in hydration of the skin. This acid is able to fade post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation (PIH, flat dark spots left on the skin after a break out has healed) and improve the appearance of fine lines by exfoliating and hydrating. 

Mandelic acid is made from almonds. It is most effective in improving pigmentation issues in the skin. It's a great choice for acne-prone, sensitive skin types because of its molecular structure. It is even bigger in size than lactic acid so it will not penetrate very deep, causing less irritation. Mandelic acid works very well in chemical peels paired with salicylic acid. Those two acids combined make an amazing treatment for acne and PIH. 

Manual Exfoliation

Manual, or physical exfoliation is more commonly know than chemical. Manual consists of scrubs and face brushes. Scrubs are the most common form of physical exfoliation. Even just using a wash cloth or esthetic sponge on your skin counts as exfoliation. 

Scrubs are usually suitable for most skin types, from dry-oily to acne prone. The only skin type I would not recommend a scrub to would be an extremely inflamed, cystic acne case. Those skin types generally benefit more from salicylic acid. Scrubs can be used almost daily depending of the consistency. Most skin care professionals recommend every other day use. Extremely gritty scrubs should be avoided (ex. St. Ives Apricot Scrub). Scrubs like this can cause micro-tearing in the skin. Micro-tears are tiny cuts made by a small sharp substance (apricot scrub) where bacteria and other harmful substances can enter the skin.  It can also cause inflamed skin to become more irritated. Look for scrubs with micro-beads instead. These are tiny round beads with no sharp edges so it cannot cause micro-tearing. Also, check the packaging for a "non-abrasive" scrub. 

Esthetic sponges are a great tool to use for gently exfoliating everyday. They also ensure that all of your makeup has come off at the end of the day. This style of exfoliation is perfect for all skin types. If you do have very sensitive skin you may want to pair the sponge with a cream cleanser. Used in combination with a scrub may be too harsh and cause redness and irritation. 

Skin brushes should be used in moderation and only with oily,normal,normal to dry, non-sensitive skin types. Anyone with acne, rosacea, cysts or any other inflamed skin condition should not use a skin brush. A skin brush I would recommend to everyone else would be the Clarisonic skin brush. It is extremely effective in removing make up and debris from the skin. A skin brush should never be used in combination with a scrub, and always with a gentle cream cleanser. 

Every skin care regimen should include exfoliation. It is necessary for keeping our skin glowing, hydrated, and healthy!